Kula only barks when someone comes to the door, or when someone goes by our fence (we live on the corner). He doesn't growl, or snarl or anything...he just wants to say Hi and ask folks to play! When we go on walks, if another dog barks at him from their yard, he doesn't make a peep. I know I really don't like it when dogs run up and down the fence barking when I walk by, so I HATE when Kula does it to other people, but it is HIS yard.
He really doesn't stop the barking if you tell him no, and his attention really can't be redirected when he's doing this, so I'm thinking that my only option is somthing like a citronella collar. I would only put it on him when he went out in the yard...my problem with it is that I don't want him to get squirted when he's just playing around with Marley, growling and yelping. That just seems really unkind...he should be able to do that when he's playing.
The other option, I guess, would be a shock collar, so I have control of when he's corrected...I just don't know if I really like the idea of that.
SO...do I go with some type of a collar, or do I just resign myself to the fact that he's going to bark at the fence and folks on the sidewalk need to suck it up? What do you guys think?
Try this, and increase the level of distraction when you call gradually.
Much better than negative training.
The Recall Game This version by Rebekah L Pless, copyright 2005, reprint at will as long as author info is left intact.
Having a dog who will reliably come when called is one of the best things in life. This means FREEDOM for your dog. Here is how to teach your dog to RUN to you each time you call it.
1) NEVER call your dog unless you are CERTAIN you can enforce the command. Each time you call your dog and he does not immediately come to you to receive a food reward, you take a step backwards in his learning to come when you call. It is important not to make mistakes when teaching the recall. DO NOT CALL YOUR DOG if here is ANY chance you cannot enforce the command. EVER.
2) NEVER call your dog to you for anything unpleasant. If you need to interrupt a play session, or you are going to trim nails, or if you are about to do anything to your dog that he does not enjoy, GO GET THE DOG. Do not call him to you.
3) FOOD REWARD every single recall. EVERY SINGLE ONE. This means keeping treats in your pockets at all times.
4) Smiles are required equipment when calling your dog. NEVER EVER call your dog in anything but a praise tone of voice. Correction will NEVER help a recall. Your dog must WANT to come when you call.
To play the game you need at least 2 people, and several is great. Each person is given a handful of very small soft treats. I prefer tiny pieces of hotdogs or string cheese. Pieces should be VERY small, even for a larger dog or puppy. I slice a hotdog in half and cut the pieces the size of a nickle. Once people have their treats, they should take a seat around the room with as much room between them as the room will allow.
One person takes the puppy or dog and points him towards the person who is going to begin the game. This person may do anything to get the puppy to come towards him except say the word COME. Clap hands, smile, laugh, show the treat, call PUPPPY PUPPPPY PUPPPPY, or the dog's name. When it is CLEAR that the pup is committed to going to the person, and ONLY THEN, say the pup's name, and come. For example, Bailey, COME! It does not matter if the puppy is almost to you, as long as the pup hears his name and the word COME while he is going TOWARDS the person calling.
Hold the hand with the food right up next to your body so that the puppy has to come all the way up to you and touch you to get the treat. Do not feed the treat until you are holding the puppy's collar. This prevents the "snatch and run" game. Praise and pet the puppy cheerfully while he is getting his treat. Once the pup has had his little tiny treat, it's time to point him towards another person who does the same thing.
It is extremely important that the participants understand they are NOT to say the word COME unless the puppy is already doing just that.
Play as long as the pup is interested. Main rules, Do not say COME unless the puppy IS coming, hold the treat up CLOSE to your body, and you must be holding the collar to feed the treat.
This simple game does more to build a reliable recall than any other training you can do. Your pup will quickly learn that his name and the word come means TREAT. Each time you call the pup and reward him for coming quickly to you, you build a more ingrained and reliable response. If you are consistent and train this game at least 2 to 3 times per week, you will have a dog who will ALWAYS come when you call it. Most owners list this as a top priority for their dogs. Here is a fun and simple way to attain this goal.
Practice often! Your pup will love this game, and so will your friends.
Personally I don't have a problem with a dog giving a few barks as you pass by its yard, especially if it is clearly friendly. Of cource it can make you jump if you aren't paying attention.
As for the shock collar I have one and I have to say it is very effective and its NOT painful. In fact, at the low levels it feels very much like when you realise your foot is sleeping (at least too me).
Also, after a few jolts you may be able to switch to just using the pager function, depends on how stubborn your dog is. The point is immediate correction, not punishment.
I must admit I've never used an electronic collar to train a dog, so I hesitate to really comment on them, but I feel it's important to show the dog WHAT to do. I much prefer to show them WHAT to do instead of what NOT to do.
Not everything works for the same dog, and electricity may be just what this dog needs, but I'm not comfortable recommending it for a little bit of fence running, or a recall issue.
Thank you so much for that recall game...I'm going to print that out and use it for both my pups!
I'm definitely wanting to try the positive methods first, so getting a more consistent "Come" is a great place to start. Kula's pretty good with "Come" under most circumstances, but definitely not when he's barking at the fence!
I was never a fan of the elctric collars, a fellow exhibitor was speaking of using one on theirs for barking issues. We decided to test it on him and let him see what he was subjecting the dog to first. Needless to say after it was placed on his neck and activated. It was tossed and was never used on his dog. LOL
The citronella collar doesn't really spray in the faCE. It sprays outwards.Its the sound and the smell that is offensive for them. Now I can't see your dog in action but I'm guessing the dog runs up and down your yard when a dog passes and the dog barks a bit. She probly feels fustrated at the fact that she can't get to the dog, because of the fence. It would be interesting to put her through some Fustration exercises, over a period of weeks to work on that fustration. That would change her reaction to the fustration. Have the dog on a leash and throw something just out of reach, like a really favourite toy or treat. She will try to get it, but hold her in place. Then when she settles and relaxes(gives up), give her the treat or toy.Teaching her that settleing gets her the treat. If you did that daily, I think over a period of time she would/should start to settle when fustration sets in. I would also reward her when shes calm, when a dog does walk by. I've never had the opportunity to try these exercises on anyone in real life.
***Edited By: sue on 10/25/2005 6:27:05 PM*** Reason: cghsdz