Okay, I don't even know now if I can get Diesel into puppy classes on the 7th. My usless vet didn't even tell me to come back at the right time to keep boosting his shots!!!! Can you believe it!!!!!!!! Now the first shot he got is cancelled out and I have to start all over. Like she gives a damn, it's not her $50!!! I hate her!!!!! Now, the lady I was going to take Diesel to for obedience (Jane Book) on the 7th won't let him in right away cause of his shot situation. I'm having major problems with him NOW though!! No one seem to want to help. Just a few minuts ago, Sean (C.L. Husband) went to pick Diesel up and he snarled and lunged to bite him:(:(:(:( I couldn't believe it!!!! He's bitten but not like that! I dont' know what to do, he out of control now (around Sean), but he's biting me too sometimes! I hold his snout and tell him no bite but it doesnt' work. I'm not going to obedience for a while and I don't know what to do! -Sad Sad Sad
i dont know if i can be much help. i have never had a pup with an aggression issue. i have heard some say to grab them and roll them onto their backs when they snap. its to make them submit to you as you are the alpha. it should be done as soon as he gets out of line. you have to establish dominance and not let him be the one to do it. just roll him onto his back and hold him there with a firm no ! i hope it helps
I don't recommend using the alpha roll because it tends to make aggression problems worse rather than better.
1. Switch vets. If your vet didn't tell you when to come back for the next shot, you need a new vet.
2. Look into hiring a private trainer until you can get Diesel into a class. If you can't afford one, then you can't, but because prices vary by region, you might as well check into it.
3. Read The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell and The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson. These two books contain a great deal of useful information and are easy to follow. I've read wonderful reviews of The Fiesty Fido by Patricia McConnell, but I've never read the book. You may want to check into getting that one, too.
4. Google "clicker training." The web contains many useful (and free) articles on the subject, including some that deal with aggression.
5. Get Diesel into another class as soon as you can.
6. Pat yourself on the back for doing the best job you can. Don't dwell on your lack of ESP for guessing when Diesel needed his next shot.
I have also hear about this roll-over type of obdeience. Make them be submissive. Have you thought of maybe a muzzle during the day until he can get into those obendience classes? It's not a long term fix but atleast until he gets his help he wont be able to bite anyone. If he continues to do so it may start a nasty pattern. It does sound like the thinks he's the alpha and that he's calling the shots. How old is he and what breed is he if you don't mind me asking?
Try to remember we've all been there! I was up and down all night the other night potty training three puppies and they were barking non stop all day until I heard about white vinegar sprayed into the mouth. The past nights before we bought a proper crate were HELL. I was crying all alone in the living room. Just know that there will be bad days and good one's. And try not to feel alone on the path of puppyhood! I've got three and I'm always listening!
`If your puppy received a set of vaccines at anything more than 3 months he "should" be immunized however the ideal is 7 days after a shot given at 4 months.
What went before is immaterial. The only reason the vaccines are repeated is that the antibodies the puppy received from it's mother either through the placenta or through nursing override the vaccine rendering it inneffective. By the time a puppy has reached 4 months the residual effects of the mother's antibodies are all gone and the vaccine can do it's job. This is not a big mystery, the effect of the vaccine is not cumulative, a puppy without any shots vaccinated at 4 months will be as resistant to Parvovirus/ parainfluenza/ distemper/adenovirus as the puppy who received 2 or 3 sets of vaccine prior to the 4 month vaccination.
This does not mean that I advocate that anyone should stop vaccinating their puppies it is the best chance we have of keeping them safe from disease.
You need to get your puppy in for his 4 month vaccination, check with your instructor and if that is not acceptable I am sure you will be able to find plenty of information online to confirm what I have written. If you cannot take your puppy with you to the first class why not go yourself, observe and practice what you have learned with your dog when you get home, then start with puppy present at the next class. Make sure you disinfect your feet and hands immediately upon returning from the class just to be safe (until he is 7 days past the vaccination).
Anyone with a screen name that contains the word Diesel is worthy of response IMO!!!!. Tough situation there. I'm in the silent majority here. My dog is aggressive, didn't do puppy school or all the recommended boosters. And I could care less. He knows his family, obeys without question the true alphas....A1 and A2b.)3iii. He wasn't given an option. He behaves as I hoped and predicted
Vets are like a microcosm of the world...just like every other profession. Most...the vast, overwhelming majority... are true to their calling and completely honest and forthcoming.. and a very few others are there to stick it to ya!!
Suppose I'm out of the loop, haven't responded much lately. Exposure to other animals/dogs seems to be at the crux of the majority of obiedience questions and concerns here. There isn't one rule as to how to do it or what is correct or not. My advice....get dizzy from reading all the advice from multiple sources....internet, books,friends..etc.. And decide what is best for you and what you are willing to undertake.
Puppies bite. This is not a form of aggression, but a form of play and communication. It's important to train a puppy not to bite in play or to communicate, as this behavior can become unacceptable and even dangerous in an adult dog. This is a very important lesson for a puppy to learn.
For many puppies, all it takes is the owner "Yiping" when puppy teeth touch human skin for them to stop this behavior. Give a "Yipe!" and stop the game for about 15 minutes after you've had to yipe to get pup to take teeth off you. That's what another puppy would do, and it helps the puppy understand. This sound needs to be what a puppy would do when the idea is "Ouch! That hurts! I don't like it! Stop it right now!"
In the litter, that offended puppy would then retaliate in some way, or refuse to play with the rough puppy for awhile. Some puppies have strong predatory instincts that are overstimulated when a person yipes, and for these puppies this would then not be an appropriate method.
Also, make sure no one is playing "mouth games" with the puppy, encouraging it to put teeth on humans for any reason. You need to react with your "yipe" or other intervention every time teeth touch a human, whether it hurts or not, so the puppy will understand this vital concept: no teeth on people. Even a gentle touch could get someone hurt if they jerk their hand away, and people will do that, especially kids.
My favorite intervention for a dog putting teeth on people in play is not a quick fix, but it has nice benefits and is very safe to do with most dogs. I simply hold the mouth closed for 15 seconds (work up to this time--at first it might frighten the dog to hold for more than about 5 seconds), while praising the dog. I say "[Dog's name], Close Your Mouth. GOOD Close Your Mouth!"
This teaches the dog the words for the behavior I want--and eventually you can remind the dog about the mouth by just saying those words. But that stage won't last long, because if you are very consistent about doing this intervention every time the puppy puts teeth on people, eventually the puppy will never do so at all.
By handling the mouthing from a positive point of view with praise--although it's still a correction: done every time the dog mouths a person's skin, it shows the dog the correct behavior of keeping teeth off people and praises the dog for doing it--you gain other benefits, such as accustoming your dog to being comfortable having someone control its mouth.
You do have to be consistent and stay with this over a period of time to get really solid results. Dogs not taught about teeth on people do not automatically outgrow it, so this is time very well spent training your dog. This method works on adult dogs as well as puppies, and is much safer for both you and the dog than harsh corrections.
Teaching a dog never to put teeth on humans is for family dogs. For some types of work dogs might do, the trainer may not want to create this strong inhibition against putting teeth on human skin. In those cases, the trainer may manage the puppy mouthing behavior by simply putting a toy in the dog's mouth. We can definitely take a cue from these trainers by redirecting our dogs' mouthing behavior into their toys, after we have carefully shown the dog not to mouthe us.
I also find it useful to teach the dog the word "Kiss" for licking. When the dog is highly stimulated in play and seems to need to touch me in some manner, I can remind the dog "Kiss" and then praise the dog for licking me.
In the early stages of working on mouthing behavior with a puppy or new dog, keep in mind that you want to teach any new behavior/command in a quiet situation with minimal distractions. So start teaching "Close Your Mouth" with the praise at times when the dog is quiet. Soon you can do it quickly and smoothly whenever mouthing occurs, even if the dog is excited. But you will in the process be bringing the dog's excitement level down and helping your dog develop self-control.
The praise is important to helping the puppy or dog learn to have no fear of a human taking control of its mouth. You are praising the puppy for accepting the restraint at that instant, not for the mouthing done 3 seconds ago.
And be sure you don't cause your dog to bite its lips or tongue when you restrain the mouth--it should be comfortable for the dog, as it should be any time you require your dog to obey any command of yours.
I appreciate everyone's advice so much. It was all very good. I fought with my vet and talked to the dog obedience trainer and I weasled my way into the classes that start Wedsday!! I'm pretty damn proud of myself, haha :) Diesel bit me twice today and left teeth marks :( For now every time he bites I say no bite and right away stick his muzzle on ( which he hates!!! I carry it on my belt ;) I noticed he's actually more subdued when he notices it on me. I'm just happy he's starting school at a great place this week. I've heard miracle stories about Jane Book and I can't wait. Thanks again everyone and have an awsome holiday!!!
also look into NILIF: nothing in life is free. it is more a way of life, than a training program. it is something oyu use all day, every day, and helps your dog to realize that every desired outcome must have your desired action before it. he must 'work' for everything...hence the name. if he wants a toy-sit. he wants to eat-lay down, wait. go outside? sit nice....etc
I see you have gotten plenty of great advice already on the subject of your puppy biting, but I too am in the puppy boat right now and would like to share what works for me. I tried the high pitched yelp, the pepper on my hand, and holding the muzzle saying no bite. I have found for my pits that a quick squirt with the water bottle seems to stop them in their tracks. A former search and resque trainer gave me that tip... They now have quit biting like they were, but sometimes the male pup I have forgets, and actually will "back talk" us when we try to correct if he nips. We then will do the alpha roll and wait until he flips his tounge, so we know he recognized we are boss. It seems to be working very well. Hope this helps.