::reluctently <bad spell> reaches up to the upper most can of worms and rips the top off::
I use shock colloars....Wait, wait!!! ::dodges the rotten tomatoes and aged fruit being tossed at me::
WOW! ::dodges the knife and growls:: now just hold the heck on for a moment!
I have to use them. I live on a 10 acre lot, way out in the country. We have 'Rednecks' with their souped up Ford trucks, all jacked up racing down our road at what looks like 60 MPH. We have scads of herds of deer, raccoon, possum, wild cats...all over the place. I installed the invisible fence to keep my babies safe. It has a warning beeping sound 4 feet from ground zero point. The dogs have taken meybe two shocks, Dekias only 1 and know to listen for the beeping and have not gotten zapped since the first two weeks it was installed, well over 6 months ago.(very low voltage, less then a 110 wall socket). I was very much against these things till I saw how close my dogs were going to the road. Woo-woo was beginning to think she was Indiana Jones and started wondering all over the country side, started chasing the trucks and even goes after helicopters. A fence is out of the question because we ride dirtbikes and ATV's all over the property (Dogs are locked in a pen when we bring the big boy toys out for their safety). I have 6 large dogs and refuse to tie them to a stake or build a kennel for them to stretch their legs in a 8 x 6 pen. This way they can run hard and fast on a two acre lot of the property.
Oh..and by the way, that last apple someone threw at me was not rotten and gave me a bruise on my head!
I've used prong collars and choke collars and harneses.
IMHO a harness is absolutely useless on a pulling dog, especially a large one. There is absolutely no correction there at all, the dog can pull and pull with no discomfort. it actually would encourage pulling. Collars , even normal ones, and prong collars and choke collars have their own corrections. I use the prong on bowen when hes being a total jerk. If a choke collar doesn't work on a dog, a prong collar almost certainly will.
I use a prong collar.it acts like a bite of another dog when the dog pulls or you correct eith it.Harnesses just let pulling even easier for them.The only time I used one was when I had my foster GSD pull me on my bike.But that was a sledding harness.I have only used shock collars for those invisible fences.It didnt work on my dogs.
I also do that to with the choker up high on the neck right behind the ears.it works with my cocker but not with my Rottie.It just doesnt make a difference.If you use the ckoer properly than they are OK.But if not they can damage the dogs throat.Where the prong collar cant.I know a dog that the owner used a ckoker all the time and didnt correct with it just put on the dog.Well the dog pulled and pulled and now she coughs contantly anytime you put pressure on her neck.It permantly damgaed the dogs throat.I recommend the prong collar alot more than I do with the choker becuase some people dont know how to use it.
I use prong collars and shock collars. but not as a correction. when the dog is young, I will put the prong collar on the dog and not use it. the collar is only worn when i am doing something fun, playing ball, treat training. i will gently check the collar while feeding, and playing, running on to the training field. this helpd the dog associate the collar with fun and not discomfort. at no time do i like to see, my dog yelp, ears go down or show any discomfort. i will do this for the first year of life, i will do any correction besides a gentle nono or ah. this helps me build a fun, loving, and playful relationship. then i start putting the check to a command, if the dog does not respond, but is paying attention, with those eyes the say i am ready, i am excited. i will then back up and re-teach what i want with treats and play. if the dog is unmotivated. i will put the dog away and think about why my dog is not motivated. some commands like "out" or "give" where i know the dog is not wanting to let go and showing definant signs of guarding. i will gently check the collar till they let go, then i will reward. later when the dog is fully matured, and is perfect on the mechanical collar. i will use a shock collar in the same way, on the lowest setting, innotek makes the "coldest" collar, tritronics the "hottest". i will do this in conjunction with the prong collar. doing both a stim and check at the same time. till i feel the dog understands the stim means what a check does. now i have a 500 yard cordless leash. the idea behind the check, is it is an aversive. but not so severe that the dog does not have fun. and the idea of the check or stim being given at the same time as the command. is to activate the dog not correct them. it's like when you are a kid and your dad playfuly says hurry-up and gently slaps on the bottom. as for harnesses, i use these when i want my dog to pull and not put stress on them. harness in the dog sport world have been used to create pulling, that is what they are for.
The most important thing IMO is to know how to properly use any training tool you are going to use, that and watch your dog know what excites him/her and makes him want to work for you. I have three dogs, all trained differently as they all have different personalities, basics were similar but.....
I used to train at Washington K-9 Academy...We trained police dogs and military...personal protection, Basic Obedience, French Ring...Schutzhund....yada yada yada...anyways...so the key isn't to figure out which devise makes them pull less..it's how to STOP them from doing it in the first place.
Ever see those people walk their dog and the dog is not pulling not going any other direction than the Owner? Itsn't that just the coolest thing ever ;) Well I had a 115lbs Rottie male who had the pull and yank and do what i want on a leash mentality..took two lessons for him to be at my side...his owner loved me after those lessons...
anyways enough rambling...here's the key.
You want the dog to follow you. pay attention to you..and nothing else. You should be the center of his attention anyway you look at it.
first thing first..if you have a choker good. put you leash on the ring that doesn't let it choke. kinda like a reg collar just thinner...this is good..now let the leash STAY LOOSE..very key you hold just the end with one or both hands..NEVER hold the middle you want the dog to get as far away pulling as it can...now your set.
start walking and when he/she starts to go ahead of you wait till you get to the end and with one good YANK flip him'her back to you (hard pull for tougher dogs) and you walk the opposite direction...every time your dog goes ahead of you and starts to pull BEFORE he/she acctually pulls yank him/her back and walk the other way..normally it only takes about 5-10 YANKS to get them to notice you are the center and they are just the dog..following you being at YOUR side and NOT pulling.
On Nala I use a prong collar because w/ out it on a walk she would be dragging me down the street lol. She is great on the prong, she is so well behaved on it. Before I bought the prong collar we tried to use a choke chain but it was useless she acted as if it wasnt there. And we also had a no pull harness before the choke chain and it worked while she was smaller but once she grew a bit it stopped working.
I use prong collars all the time on my dogs. My pittie loves to pull when shes on a leash and Porky will drag me all over the place when he sees another dog.
I use a harness on my oldest dog sometimes. He doesnt pull like the other ones.
There are harnesses that you can use with pullers. I believe its called the No-Pull Harness. It has a thing that goes over the dogs head dowwn between its front lgs and over its back. When the dog pulls it causes the straps between the legs to tighten up into the dogs armpit and stops the pulling.
My aunt had one for her mastiff/shepard mix. He weighed around 130lbs and dragged everyone including her husband. But after getting the no-pull harness he walked perfectly on leash.
I train in schutzhund and personally, I never correct pulling, it shows drive. so when you correct the pulling you lower drive. a dog that shows enthusiasm, In my experience should not be corrected. This Obviously is not pet dog training. So what I do to take a walk with my puppies, is not hold the leash, obviously this done in a safe enivorment. Pulling and jerking on leashes creates oppositional reflex, the urge to pull back. it's a perfectly natural response for a dog. so as my dogs grows, it has never had this conflict with me. the pup learns to follow and stay close, cause I will leave them if they wander to far. I play on the insecurities of the puppy. i try to impose as little conflict as possible. Physically making them do it, does not mean they necassairly mentally get it. I like the dog be with me cause they want to. not because i made them. correcting, just dampers the dogs happiness, and the dog stays near not because that's what is fun. but because the altewrnative sucks.
I to use a prong andhave since training from 15 weeks on. Duke is 165 lbs english mastiff x and I must have control of him if I take him into town. Around home because he is trained I use the remote trainer for walking. We often would go for walks and I don't mind him wandering in front of me and what not. With the remote I can tell him heel and if the deer poop or whatever else is to interesting I just give a little tap on the shoulder to remind him to listen.
Love prongs hate the look LOL. Just went to vets last week and he is still good as gold on it even though he hasn't worn it in over a year