miss melodee: My dog is thriving on it. His teeth came in beautifully. His coat is shiny and healthy. He's got plenty of energy. How long do you feed your dogs puppy chow? 6 months or 1 year?
Minnyar: My pup is 6 months next week. And I am feeding him 4 cups a day too. The trainer did not single anyone out. She simply said all the puppies in the class were overweight. And its true because all the dogs in class are less that a year old and there are two labs that I thought were at least 3 or 4 years old. My guy is still small but she said if you see a little fold by the hind legs when the sit they're overweight.
Could it be the amount of exercise? Which will bring me to my next question: How much exercise is appropriate for a 6 month old puppy? (Maybe I should start another post for this topic)
***Edited By: labguy on 12/28/2006 11:42:23 AM*** Reason: ***
Riley, I already read your post. Yes, you compared the two and they are extremely similar. I took the avice of my vet and had my puppy's on a small breed puppy food. I stand by that.
Do I have a crystal ball to go back and un-do it just to have them on adult formula? Um NO. And I wouldn't even if I could. I think there's a good reason that my girl's are happy and healthy. I also never claimed to be a food expert...I gave my experience and suggestion.
Just wondering, is the weather pretty bad out your way? It appears that maybe you have more time to fixate on my comments. The OP's dog is on "Puppy Chow" and instead of offering suggestions to labguy you are passive agressively questioning me about the difference between the royal canin puppy and adult food!
ok well minniyar took the words right out of my mouth ....nice post =)
i have always had large breeds. i have, before there was such a thing as large breed puppy food, always fed them regular puppy food until they were 1 year of age. with scout, i fed her a large breed puppy food until she was 18 months old. with large breed pups, not only do you have to monitor protein and fats, you also need to watch the calcium levels.
to my knowledge, HD is not caused by too fast a growth. things like panosteitis and OCD are fast growing bone problems.
labguy, if i were you i would switch your pup to a large breed puppy food. the regular puppy chow may just be too high in fat for him.
Since vets receive no training on nutrition in college & they are bombarded by SD all through school & get huge perks from them - people really need to study the ingredients in dog food to know the difference between garbage, decent food, & premium quality food.
The big difference in the puppy chow as opposed to adult food is it has a high amount of corn in it. Makes sense - corn packs weight on - provides more calories - puppy's need weight - right? Not always - lab guy & LoR have it right. They aren't getting better nutrition, they are getting more calories, which does make them grow to fast for the bones to keep up.
IMO Purina doesn't make a product fit to feed - full of corn, wheat, by-products, artificial dyes & preservatives. Loaded with fillers & preciouis little nutritional value at all.
I couldn't get the link I posted to work, so this is Rileys ~Dog Food Info~ that she posted for me. It is long but really worth the read.
Dog Food ~ Decoding Fact from Fiction by Laura Presley
The great dog food debate- the good the bad and the ugly. How does one choose? If you follow your television you may believe that the companies that advertise on there have foods full of tasty meat and chock full of great vitamins and minerals, but is it true? Not so much. In the world of dog food it is buyer beware, yet the average person picking up a supermarket brand of dog food is unaware of the hazard. This does not make them bad owners – they are simply uninformed owners. Who knew you needed to research dog food more diligently than your own food?
While it is true many dogs have lived out full life spans on Ol’ Roy or a similar low-quality kibble for years, it does not mean it is the best choice. It would be like you going out to eat at your local McDonalds daily. You wouldn’t eat junk food on a daily basis and neither should your pet either.
Better quality foods are highly digestible which means there is less waste to come out! Poor quality pet foods contain fillers, like corn. It makes your dog feel full but is highly indigestible. Feeding a premium food means that your dog will eat less, IAMS suggest that you feed a 25 lbs dog 4 cups of kibble. On a holistic brand like Solid Gold, you are likely to feed 1.5 cups or less! Holistic brands cost more but last longer than any supermarket brand. Since your pet is healthier by feeding a premium brand, it also means fewer visits to the vet.
Veterinarians and the Pet Food Industry~ Veterinarians and nutrition is a touchy subject for many. I love my vet. She is great, when it comes to the overall well being of my dog. When it comes to nutrition, I respect her, but I do not want her suggestions. When I go to my doctor, and I have a nutrition based problem I see a specialist. The same is true in the animal world. While some vets can specialize in certain areas like nutrition, which require hours of research and practical work the average vet has 3-5 hours of nutrition studies per semester. A drop in the bucket in comparison to the countless hours studied on the medical health of animals. While I will not take the statistics offered from vet schools without a grain of salt, “a typical veterinary medical student spends about 4,000 hours in classroom, laboratory, and clinical study”1 That’s a lot of education, and without specializing, very little of it is on food. So why do so many people exclusively trust their vet’s opinion? They are professionals and are devoted to the care of our pets but are sorely lacking when it comes to a pet’s diet. Without doing your own research you honestly would not know what is in the food you feed your precious cat or dog. Also, they get kickbacks in selling food whether it be IAMS, Science Diet or Hill’s Veterinary Formula (made by Science Diet). “Charles Danten was a veterinarian in Montreal for 20 years. Now he's a journalist who writes about the ethics of his former profession. He told Marketplace that the mark up on premium pet food accounted for as much as 20 per cent of his income.”2 Unless your pet has a serious problem that is untreatable in any other form, there is no reason to use Hill’s. For short term problems there are benefits, but it has a large price tag for the daily feeding of mediocre ingredients for the life span of your pet. If you understand the animal’s problem, you can often find a better food that will also help your pet. Every vet diet I have looked at contains mediocre to bad ingredients. Some have reasons for working like the K/O kangaroo and Oatmeal from Eukanuba’s Vet line (most dogs have never been exposed to kangaroo and can not be allergic to something they have never been in contact with) and others like the gastro formulas are just a load of bad ingredients that do not seem to have any calming properties. There is little reason for a dog to be on any vet formula for life. With some care and research you can find better foods that will also do the same job if not a better one without a prescription. It does not matter which brand a vet pushes, Hill’s, Medi-cal or Eukanuba’s veterinary diets. They all have a similar jumble of less than desirable ingredients.
Where to Find Better Food Choices~ Ingredients, ingredients, ingredients. While you may not read the label on the box of chocolate chip cookies you buy for yourself, it is imperative you do read the ingredients on what you feed your pet. Just because the bag is pretty and says on it “formulated by a vet” or “now with extra meat” it does not mean it is actually good. Good food does not come from the supermarket, or big chains like Walmart, and often not from large pet store chains. The big chain stores for pets are wising up, and they realize people are getting better informed. I have found great holistic brands along side poor quality brands that make me want to choke; the selection is often not so great. Feed stores are your friend. Many carry only great foods and have knowledgeable employees that can help you wade through the ever expanding world of dog food and its jargon. This does not mean that every employee working in a feed store is helpful mind you. If you go in armed with knowledge you can figure out either on your own or with some help what it is you need for Fluffy or Fido. Also, please keep in mind that not every food works with every dog. You may not even realize that the food is not ‘perfect’ until you find the one that is. When you do though, and get less stool, and firmer stool, you will be cheering so loudly the neighbours may be calling Bellevue for you. So just because the first better food you tried is not working perfectly it is no reason to get discouraged and discount all better quality foods because of it. It simply takes a little time. I should also add that no matter what you choose to feed, you should read the label from time to time. Ingredients may change a little or vary the order in which they are listed. For a sensitive dog, you may see some negative effects when you did not purposely change food on your pet. Manufacturers do not have to inform you of a change, although many do when making a significant one. Just something to think about once in a while.
Allergens: Environmental and Food~ Allergies in dogs are becoming more and more common these days. On your own without allergy testing you will not know if it is environmental or if it is the food. Even if you do allergy test and pinpoint environmental allergies some of them are near impossible to deal with alone like grass. Your dog may end up needing allergy shots to control it if it is that severe. In some cases it is not an allergy it is an intolerance, but that will not make your pet any less uncomfortable.3 The easiest thing to start with is eliminating the most common sources of allergies in food. Wheat, corn, soy, chicken, and beef are fairly common allergy causing foods. There are others, and any dog could be allergic to preservatives in food or something far less common. If you start by looking for a food without the main causes of allergies you may find you cured your problem on your own. A dog can not be allergic to something they have never been exposed to, so if you choose a food with a more obscure meat like bison, or a fish along with a grain like oatmeal you may find that your furry friend eases down on itching and paw nibbling without major intervention. Keep in mind that food based allergies can take up to 6 months to disappear from a dog’s system, even after no longer coming in contact with the allergen or intolerance. In part it may be a waiting game, along with the possibility of environmental allergens. You may be able to minimize some of the problems with a better food though which is a great step in the right direction.
What is Really in the Dog Food Bag? What does that dog food label really mean? Your dog is a carnivore. Ideally you want a food that is high in meat and low in filler. Foods like Science diet that start with corn indicate you paid for mainly indigestible filler in a pretty coloured bag. You want a meat source, and even better if it is ‘meal’ though it is not required. Meal is meat without water weight, so there is ‘more’ meat being accounted for. Many good foods have more than once source of meat though so do not fret. A couple of meat sources at the top of a label meal or not is an excellent start. You also want to be able to identify them. Poultry is bad, it could be who knows what, versus chicken or turkey is just fine. By-products can be a touchy subject with some people. They are not just the internal organs of the animal in question. I only know of one dog food off hand that clarifies that they are using just the internal organs. While an animal in the wild would eat most everything, by-products in dog food are mighty scary. In the wild the dog would be able to eat the whole animal- organs and the meat. In "say a 40 pound bag of dog food of which the 20% animal protein included consists of only chicken feet, heads, bones and feathers and maybe some livers and hearts. If at all, because chicken livers and other organ meats are used separately as pet food ingredients or also sold for human consumption. Have a look around at the pet store some time and see how many treats and canned foods made with chicken liver."4 So you end up with a bag of dog food that is mainly the left over garbage that had no where else to go. Your dog is not getting the usable meat they would in the wild along with the extras such as organs.
The way things are worded for definitions by AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) http://www.aafco.org can be very sneaky. Read the definitions of what ingredients are and “ask yourself why something is worded in just that specific way. Words and phrases that are present in the definition of one item, but absent in another do tell a lot about what could or could not be in a product.”5 If you do not understand what something is, it is often something you wish to avoid. Unspecific ingredients such as ‘animal fat’ are pretty frightening. It could be derived from the 4 D’s of the slaughter industry- dead, diseased, disabled, or dying prior to slaughter and could be part of a cow or road kill from how the AAFCO definition is written. It truly bothers me to know that “companion animals from clinics, pounds, and shelters can and are being rendered and used as sources of protein in pet food.”6 Poorer quality grains that are being ‘reused’ from human industry are also common and low in nutritional value. Lastly, just because something is a ‘meal’ does not make it good. There are many that may be in poor quality foods including meat and bone meal- which is all made from parts that can not be used for human consumption, corn gluten meal – which has some protein but not enough to be anywhere near a top ingredient along with as many as 10 other really poor quality ‘meal’ choices. Just use common sense. If it sounds mysterious, or it is unspecific, walk away. This site tells you the AAFCO definitions and a little people perspective on all the worst ingredients in pet food if you would like more specific education on what pet food can be. http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=badingredients
Better Ingredient Choices~ Now that is a lot of ingredients to condemn, so what does that leave us with? You want a good source of protein as your first ingredient and possibly second and or third as well depending- for example bison, salmon meal, turkey, chicken meal. If you remember from earlier ‘meal’ is the water removed, so a few sneaky companies may put a good source of meat followed by a grain. And if it is not a specific meat meal, it means you have a food with more grain than meat. How is the average person supposed to know this? They often do not. And it is how companies get away with more fillers than meat.
A few foods contain no grains but they are higher in protein than most dogs need, so next there will be a grain. Good ones include brown rice, oatmeal, millet, barley.. There are more but that is a start. White rice is not evil, it is just not as healthy, and is preferable if it is a little further down the ingredient list. ‘Ground’ or ‘meal’ is okay too, but avoid things like ‘brewer’s rice’. It is a by-product of the brewing industry with so little nutrition it is practically worthless. You do not need 3 forms of rice in one food, it is overkill on filler. And sweeteners are not helpful either. Menadione is a vitamin many better companies are removing from their food as it may cause health problems.
Many senior dog foods and weight loss foods are often jam packed with fillers. In diet food the dog is pooping out what it can not digest and is not taking in as many nutrients or calories. You would be easier on the dog to feed a better quality food in a smaller amount, and supplementing with low calorie vegetables to fill the dog up. Senior foods are trying to give a dog less calories. But by packing it full of fillers what exactly are you paying for? Your dog to poop more than it should need to? Better companies do have better senior foods, but you really need to read the labels to find something that is worth the cost.
Multinational Corporations and the Pet Food They Make~ Many of the main stream dog food companies that are the most well known also own human manufacturing companies. Nice way to reuse your by-products for free. Food is not marketed to your pet; it is with you in mind. Your dog does not care what the bag looks like. These big businesses are making a profit from what should really be going to waste. What big businesses own pet food companies?
Nestlé - Alpo, Come 'N Get It, Mighty Dog, Chef's Blend, Fancy Feast, Friskies, Kit 'N Kaboodle, Deli-Cat, and Nestlé Purina products such as Dog Chow, Pro Plan, Beneful and Purina One
Colgate-Palmolive - Hill's Science Diet Pet Food
Del Monte - 9-Lives, Kibbles `n Bits, Cycle, Gravy Train, Nature's Recipe, and Reward
Procter & Gamble - Eukanuba and Iams
Mars - Pedigree, Advance, Cesar, Whiskas and Sheba Another leading pet food, Nutro, is not a multinational company.7
Except for Nutro, all the brands of dog food listed contain waste ingredients from human production of food. Nice cheap way to recycle and it is your pet that gets the short end of the stick. Most of these brands advertise so they are in your home and in your head. It is easy to believe that they are great from what it says on the front of the bag along with the pretty pictures of happy dogs.
How to Analyze the Label~ Tired yet? Let us look at some common foods pushed often at unknowing consumers and why they are not so great. I am picking a common bag of food from a few of the big names. Some of their foods fare a little better some a little worse, but none are actually good. So within the range of looking at these it shows you an awful assortment of what is actually made by these companies.
The first ingredient is corn which is very indigestible and the bulk of what the food is- filler. Chicken by-product meal means that there is no actual real source of meat in this food since we talked earlier about what this actually contains. And soybean meal which is a “poor quality protein filler used to boost the protein content of low quality pet foods”8 Lastly of the main ingredients there is an unspecific fat that could really contain anything. This is a food pushed on television- often pushed by vets. And it is mainly garbage.
Let us look at another. Purina has high television coverage, commercials of happy bouncing dogs. So what is actually in it?
Another food that is mainly corn. Coincidence? No, it is cheap filler. You make more money being cheap. More chicken by-products rather than real meat, and more corn in an even less protein filled form. Whole wheat flour is generally so processed most of the nutrients are gone “flour ingredients are simply the leftover dust from processing human food ingredients”9 And the last main ingredient beef tallow which is a flavouring agent for low quality food and very cheap to obtain.
How about Eukanuba. They are so large they own the Superdogs franchise. They are a subsidiary of IAMS. Vets push the food often. They have to be good, right?
Eukanuba Original (Adult Maintenance Formula)- Chicken, chicken byproduct meal, corn meal, ground whole grain sorghum, ground whole grain barley, fish meal, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols, a source of vitamin E, and citric acid), brewers rice, natural chicken flavor, dried beet pulp (sugar removed), dried egg product, brewers dried yeast, potassium chloride, salt, sodium hexametaphosphate, calcium carbonate, flax meal, choline chloride, ferrous sulfate, dl-methionine, vitamin E supplement, beta carotene, zinc oxide, ascorbic acid, manganese sulfate, copper sulfate, manganous oxide, vitamin A acetate, calcium pantothenate, biotin, rosemary extract, vitamin B12 supplement, thiamine mononitrate (source of vitamin B1), niacin, riboflavin supplement (source of vitamin B2), inositol, pyridoxine hydrochloride (source of vitamin B6), vitamin D3 supplement, potassium iodide, folic acid, cobalt carbonate
They actually use chicken which is a step up from the foods we have looked at, but when the water weight is removed it sits behind the corn meal. Which means this food is mainly chicken by-products like the others. It contains corn meal as cheap filler like the other foods so far. Ground whole grain sorghum is a good carbohydrate, but it has very poor digestibility making it a poor choice as a main ingredient in a dog food. The barley would be good if the food was not already full of so many fillers and the fish meal is unspecific which means the quality is anyone’s guess. And if it is not human grade it has been preserved with ethoxyquin which does not have to be mentioned on the label- it is banned from human consumption, but it is alright for your dog? “A dog is consuming up to 300 times more ethoxyquin than allowed for people. (depending upon the weight) Also many dog food manufacturers are not always listing it as an ingredient on the packaging, but sometimes merely print ‘E’.”10 Lastly chicken fat is fine. But out of that ingredient list only two of the top ingredients are actually good. And this is a food people assume is great.
How about a ‘vet diet’ for comparison of how great the ingredients are for the prices one pays. It should also be mentioned it is far more difficult to locate the ingredient lists for prescription diets than normal food.
How is corn sensitive on a stomach? It is not. They are using a mediocre quality rice, and dried egg product is a stool hardener which is really high on this ingredients list. Chicken by-products are the ‘meat’ and then more corn, but at least the fat is specific. This is barely a food in all honesty. Some days my compost bucket contains more nutritional value than what is listed here. It would be far cheaper and better food for you canine pal to cook beef and rice for a sensitive tummy.
Some of the worst of the worst. Ol’ Roy. Cheap food shows in its ingredients.
I have seen worse, but seriously, if one were to look at the ingredients they should honestly wonder without anyone’s help. Corn and meat and bone meal as discussed earlier (the 4 Ds of the slaughterhouse) that could be goats, road kill or technically euthanized pets. The wheat would be okay if it was not already full of fillers, the soybean meal is a poor by-product that is more filler and the middlings are floor sweepings with no nutritional value; super cheap filler. Last main ingredient is animal fat which has been gone over more than once and I am sure you now know what it is by now.
That was a lot of learning through bad foods. Let us look at a good one for comparison.
The differences are noticeable immediately. While the Elk is not the heaviest ingredient when the water is removed, Salmon is the number one and is an excellent protein source. Millet is a good grain highly nutritious, and sweet potatoes are a healthier carbohydrate than most. The elk is a good meat and rare enough in foods that it might help with a dog with allergies. Oats are fine, and flaxseed helps digestion and is an essential fatty acid. It should also be noted it does not have any stool hardeners. On a good food the dog should be able to produce great poop on its own. Too much fibre can also cause loose stool resulting in poorer food having more than one stool hardener in it.
So where should you go from here? You can research on the internet or look through some books; there are some great ones on the subject of what is in dog food. If you have never been to a feed store look through your yellow pages. At least go browse, look at some labels up close and personal. You may find some decent brands in your local Petco, but you need to know your labels to decipher the good, the bad, and the ugly. Also, there are a few brands that make holistic great quality food, and a second line of mediocre food like we have just talked about. They can be sneaky about it, and I do not like the idea of the cheap food and the good food by one brand, but just keep an eye out for it. It is not all equal. Rating Your Current Kibble~ Want to rate your dog’s current food? This kibble rating system has been sent around some. The original author is Fredalina and I hear she would like to make some changes to it, but as it stands now it easily can show good from bad. Although I would love to see a revised edition reflecting higher scores for fewer grains if she finds the time.
How to grade your dog's food: Start with a grade of 100:
1) For every listing of "by-product", subtract 10 points
2) For every non-specific animal source ("meat" or "poultry", meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points
3) If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points
4) For every grain "mill run" or non-specific grain source, subtract 5 points
5) If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. "ground brown rice", "brewer's rice", "rice flour" are all the same grain), subtract 5 points
6) If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points
7) If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points
8 ) If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3points
9) If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points
10) If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points
11) If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points
12) If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points
13) If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isn't allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points
14) If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isn't allergic to beef), subtract 1 point
15) If it contains salt, subtract 1 point
1) If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points
2) If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist, add 5 points
3) If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points
4) If the food contains probiotics, add 3 points
5) If the food contains fruit, add 3 points
6) If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points
7) If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points
If the food contains barley, add 2 points
9) If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points
10) If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point
11) If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point
12) For every different specific animal protein source (other than the first one; count "chicken" and "chicken meal" as only one protein source, but "chicken" and "" as 2 different sources), add 1 point
13) If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point
14) If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point
94-100+ = A 86-93 = B 78-85 = C 70-77 = D 69 = F
This is a list of some foods to give you an idea on how they score. I did not add them up, so if the math is not correct, I was not responsible, though I appreciate having the list to use.
Eagle Pack Holistic: 119 A + Wellness Super5Mix Chicken: 117 A+ Solid Gold Bison-123 points A+ Eagle Pack Natural: 94 A Canidae-119 points A+ Natural Balance Duck and Potato-114 points A+ Eagle Pack Large and Giant Breed Puppy: 94 A Timberwolf Organics Lamb and Venison-136 points A+ Innova-117 points A+ Eagle Pack Holistic Chicken-114 points A+ Chicken soup-113 points A+ Flint River Ranch: 92 (non-specific fat source) B Eukanuba Natural Lamb and Rice-87 points B Nutro Natural choice Lamb and Rice-85 points C Nutro Chicken, Rice, & Oatmeal: 85 (non-specific fat source) C Eukanuba Large Breed Adult: 83 C Iams Large Breed: 83 C Iams Lamb Meal and Rice-74 points D Science Diet chicken adult maintainance-45 points F Bil-Jac select-37 points F Science Diet Large Breed: 68 F Pro Plan All Breed: 68 F Pedigree Complete Nutrition: 42 F Pedigree Adult Complete-14 points F Ol Roy-9 points F Purina Beneful- 17 points F It is now up to you to make a decision on what to do about you and your furry friend and their nutrition. There is another world in home cooked meals, and yet another in raw. But neither subject am I very versed in, so I hope someone else will step up to either challenge. Dog food is a confusing world, but I hope you have read enough to at least get a grip on where to begin.
labguy, I feed my pups for a full year on the purina puppy chow per my vets instructions. I realize there is a huge "debate" about food and it is just like any other topic, you just have to do what makes you comfortable, taking into consideration what your vet tells you, and previous results.
I am sure you can find lots of reasons to not feed purina puppy chow, I can find lots of reasons to feed it.....just like asking for advice on human children, theres lots of it, ya just have to do what makes you feel best......if purina puppy chow was really all that bad I think I would know by now as all 7 of my adults were raised on it, and now all their pups too.....you must remember one thing we do not have wild dogs, we have domesticated dogs and their needs are not the same.
my dogs are important to me. that is why i want them to have foods that are nutrional. puppy chow is junk in my opinion. too much corn and fillers. yes , dogs can live years on it, but it doesnt mean that they are getting the best that i can provide for them. i feed natural balance potato and duck. it has done wonders for rocky's allergies and they all thrive on it. it cost a little more than the cheaper foods, but they dont need to eat as much to be full, so it balances itself out cost wise.
I agree to put the dog on a high quality food. --Puppy chow is NOT a high quality food. As far as listening to your vet. Sorry, I don't agree with that one on this. My vet pushes purina products. --Which is what he sells in the lobby, before purina he carried science diet and pushed that. Good luck with your pup!
You know i have been wondering the same thing about dog foods. I am getting my puppy in two weeks and the breeder feeds them purina puppy chow healthy morssels. I wasnt sure if that was good or do you go with the more expensive premium food? I have been reading on here the different opinions and I am confussed. I guess in a way I look at it like children, when they are first born they say a mothers milk is the best over formula, but everyone has to do what they think is best. If i do decide to change what the breeder is giving the pup how do i go about doing it? Thanks
My opinion is not high of Puppy CHow at all. I agree there seems to be a lot of junk in there that I can't imagine would be healthy. But this is my first pup so I figure my breeder knows alot more about dogs than I do. And she did say I should put him on a high quality food, after a year.
miss melodee: How much were you feeding your pups at 6 months? I was feeding him 2 cups twice a day until the trainer told me he was over weight. Now I scaled him back to 1 and 3/4 cups twice a day.
Someone compared the care of their dogs to their children...would you rather feed your growing child fruit loops? High in sugar and colorings...basically filler. Or Cheerios...low in sugars good source of fiber which is good for the digestive system and heart?
If it were my dog, I'd find a different kind of food.