Summer and Ace go on about 3 walks a day for about 40 minutes at a time. Ace walks fine, even if he wanted to run ahead...he weighs like 9lbs so he's not hard to control. Summer, on the other hand, is getting hard to handle. She weighs 20lbs and is on a harness with a 15 foot retractable leash. She PULLS on it so hard she'll literally choke herself if I don't stop her. I have no idea how to teach her how to walk right next to me. My aunt's GSDs walk right next to her feet and when she stops they stop and sit down. How can I teach her to at least stop dragging me. I hate yanking on the leash bc it really doesn't seem to do anything and I get very very frustrated. Her main goal when we are outside is to catch squirrels. She has got a major hunting drive or something because she's got her nose to the ground and takes off running looking for animals to chase. What should I do? I want to send her to obedience but will that help her learn to walk??? She can't go until January to obedience because that's when I can afford it. Anyone have any tips please??
my first suggestion would be to get her off that harness. you have no control over a dog with a harness on. i realize she is a little dog but i really think it is time for her to be on a collar. apparently she has a strong beagle instinct in her. how long is her nose ? is it long enough for a gentle leader collar ? if it is i would highly recommend getting one of those for her as opposed to any of the choke/prong collars. until you fit her for a gentle leader/ halti collar i would make a dead stop when she pulls and turn in the other direction and start walking away from her. each time she pulls i would do that. unfortunately if you have ace with you you will probably get all tangled up and fall flat on your face. i know i would :)
I have gunny doing the sam thing as your aunt GSD's. I would go with a solid leash first for training. start of with the dog at your side. begin to walk as soon as she lunges ahead turn around.this will put her in the back instantly and you ahead and in control. praise when she gets by your side. she will figure out every time she lunges ahead you turn around. this is a leadership thing not a walking thing. she wants to lead. then when you stop. give the sit comand. if she doesn't sit by your side. don't pull. move her where she needs to be. praise. pulling only makes them want to pull harder.
Thanks Scout, yes her nose is long enough for a gentle lead. My bf and I walk the dogs together so he always takes Ace and I get Summer. When she pulls me I usually stop dead in my tracks and she gets yanked so hard her front paws come off of the ground. I hate doing that to her, people have got to think I'm a bad owner. I just don't know what to do. I don't want to be walked by her everyday. I literally have to run really fast when she sees a squirrel. I swear one day she's going to run straight up a tree to get one :) Right now she just stands on her back legs and cries really loud because she can't get them. It seems like she doesn't care being choked. No matter how hard we hold our ground and won't let her leash get any slack she pulls harder and harder, not moving, gasping for air. She just won't let up. I didn't want to use a choke collar so I'll try the gentle lead thing. I've got a regular pink cloth collar I can use, even though she hates it (being used to the harness). Im going to get the gentle lead and try it, though. Thanks! =0)
it depends on what works for her. my dogs protested the gentle leader very much at first. they still try to rub it on my leg every now again. the choke collar works good for moose but gunny doesn't seem to be phased by it. if you go with a gentle leader. my other suggestion is to provide verbal reprimand also when she pulls (even if gently) so she knows it is you that doesn't want her to pull and not the gentle leader.
Okay thanks Gunny, I am going to be trying to train her like a drill sergeant for the next few weeks, so I'll see how things go. I figured I needed to get rid of the harness, it's cute and all, but it provides no me no control. When she pulls I usually yank her back like a psycho because I end up getting more and more frustrated the more she does it. My bf and I always get into fights when we're walking the dogs because he thinks that since we don't have a yard they need to run. But there is a difference between me running with her and her dragging me all over the place with no regards to my commands. What are some good verbal reprimands I should say when she pulls? Right now I just say, "Summer WALK!" or something along those lines. I make her sit down at every curb before we cross and she stays sitting until I say "Cross" so I guess that's a step in the right direction sort of. Thanks for your help Scout and Gunny!
Your tone and and posture could help too. we are getting in to some more advaced stuff with that. make your praise warm and soft, not matter how excited you get. and make your reprimand solid,firm and sharp, but do not go crazy. dogs feed of that energy, it makes anixous. for postur walk relaxed, with your head high shoulders back. like your in charge. i know it sounds funny but it will help. the hardest part of posture is being relaxed.
the most common terms you will hear in dog school are heel or lets go. both mean to walk with your dog at your side. the only problem i foresee you teaching her either of these words is if she doesn't listen to it so may learn now that those words don't mean diddly. so when you go to class it may be a little harder to get her to listen to them because she is used to ignoring you when you say them. if you use heel then make sure she does it. with the gentle leader i think it will be much easier for you both. and i hate the flexi leads. i have one for scout and i detest it. i have no control over her when she is on one. and on more then 1 occasion i thought she was going to snap her neck cause she will run so fast and then hit the end and almost do a backflip. i only use it if we are walking thru the woods and when i walk her for potty so i don't have to walk every where with her.
THE PET CONNECTION By Gina Spadafori Pet Columnist Under Control My first exposure to serious dog training came almost a quarter-century ago in a class taught by a man who'd trained dogs for the Air Force. His method was direct: The dog was to execute the command or be promptly corrected. His tool for training: the choke collar. Used properly, he explained, the collar didn't choke the dog. Pull the leash quickly to pop the collar tight against the dog's neck and make the correction, and then let the leash go slack to release the collar. I had a decent sense of timing and a bright dog, so I did well, took more classes, competed in obedience trials and later taught my own dog-training classes. As a trainer of group classes, I became frustrated with the choke-chain collar. People couldn't help but put it on upside-down, so it wouldn't release easily. And the timing of the snap-and-release action, even if the collar was on right, was too difficult for many people to master. And there was one more problem. Used incorrectly, the choke-chain collar was more than ineffective: It was cruel. Which is why in recent years I've been delighted to see the development of alternatives to the choke chain. These products are easier to master and easier on the dog, and they make possible one of the greatest pleasures in keeping a dog: taking a nice long walk with your friend. Pat Miller, of Hagerstown, Md., an author, dog trainer and past president of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, is supportive of no-chain training. "I do not advocate their use, even properly, due to the potential for physical injury and damage to the dog-human relationship," she says. "Many dogs train perfectly well on a flat collar, and the new front-clip control harnesses are a wonderful option." Of the two no-chain methods of gaining control of a dog on-leash, head halters have been around longer. They work on the same principal in use for generations with horses: Control the head, and the body will follow. Canine head halters have two loops: one that fits over the top of the nose, and another that fits high over the back of the neck. Pressure on the leash pulls down on the loops from below. "When a dog pulls on a leash, pressure on the dog's nose turns him back toward the person holding the leash, making it difficult for the dog to pull," explains Miller. "The halter also seems to have a depressing effect on some dogs, dampening out-of-control energy. The dog learns to walk politely on the leash in order to avoid the unpleasant pressure on his nose when he pulls." The downside to a head halter, says Miller, is that some dogs don't like them, and they'll rub or claw at a halter even after they've been acclimated to it. Halters can also be difficult for some people to put on and adjust properly, which is why it's best to have the halter fitted by a trainer or a knowledgeable employee of a pet-supply store. Miller says that when she chooses a halter, it's usually for dogs who require a higher level of head control, such as an aggressive animal. The new front-snap harnesses also work to use the dog's own forward motion to train him not to pull, says Miller. "The new harnesses have a ring in the front where the leash attaches, so you get the same turning effect as the head halter. The pressure is on the shoulders, not the nose, so dogs find it less objectionable," she says. "I have not had even one dog fight the front-clip harness the way that many fight the head halter." If you've been struggling to walk your dog, and especially if you've given up trying, it's time to break the chain and have your dog fitted for a head halter or front-clip harness. You'll both enjoy being able to walk together again. Head halters are easy to find in pet-supply stores, catalogs and from online merchants. The Gentle Leader (around $20, depending on size) is perhaps the best-known of the brands, and was invented by a veterinary behaviorist and a dog trainer. For online information, go to www.premier.com. The site shows proper fitting and some training techniques. Two front-clip harnesses are available, although these newer products haven't made the move to many mainstream pet-supply outlets and are available primarily from trainers, shelters or specialty training Web sites, as well as from their manufacturers. The SENSE-sation harness (from $20 to $25, depending on size) is available from manufacturer SofTouch Concepts Inc. (www.softouchconcepts.com, 866-305-6145). The company is planning to launch a similar lower-priced product this fall, called the SENSE-ible harness. The K-9 Freedom harness (same price range) is available from Wayne Hightower (www.waynehightower.com, 800-246-6336).
What worked for me was just not moving if the dog was pulling. lol, it took 20 minutes to get to the end of the driveway the first time, but eventually she got it. I tried the turning around in the other direction thing, but she just pulled again. Stopping and going nowhere until she relaxed on the leash took awhile but it worked.
I suggest a little prong collar. Pull=pressure on those. Or maybe even a little chain choke chain. When I trained a Beagle to heel on a choke chain, when he would pull, I popped the chain hard enough for him to snap back, but soft enough for him not to go flying back. He learned FAST. Now he knows changes of pace heeling, and I MAY start obedience with him, if I manage to get an ILP # for him. He knows sit/stay exercises, so that's a start :D ---Allie the Chihuahua http://www.dogster.com/?41063 ---Mönica the Kitty http://www.catster.com/?57596
Wow, thanks Ltlgto! I feel so special, it was like a *special* TTFD just for me! =0) Lalayla, I do the whole don't move until Summer stops pulling thing. She gets it eventually, she'll stop pulling and just stand there. But as soon as I go to move, she takes off running. It's not even the pulling that bothers me as much as it is her running. She wants to run as fast as she can from tree to tree. Allie, I was going to try the gentle lead on her first...but if that doesn't work I was going to go for the choke collar. I was thinking about having my aunt work with her on the leash...because her dogs are all trained so well. But I dunno, I don't think Summer would like her very much...shes very strict with her dogs. They do exactly what she says. When she teaches her puppies to walk every time they get even a little in front of her, she pulls back and says HEEL!
That is exactly what I do. Pop the leash back HARD and say "heel!" People will think you are a psycho, but after about 3 days of poping the leash, she will figure it out. She will even cut down on the pulling after about 5 corrections or so. Good luck, and tell us how it goes! Also, if you do purchase a choke chain, make sure it is of the correct link size and length. ---Allie the Chihuahua http://www.dogster.com/?41063 ---Mönica the Kitty http://www.catster.com/?57596
Yeah, I don't think I'm going to get a choke chain. After reading Ltlgto's article about how dogs can be trained just as easily with a cloth collar...I think I'll just try and use her regular collar instead of her harness from now on. Even though the article does say something about the circle clip thing in the front of the harness. Summer's has one, and the article says clipping the leash there is just as effective as using a gentle leader. Hmmm, I might try that tomorrow and see what happens. I really hate to put a collar around her neck, Im afraid Im going to hurt her. You said after 5 or so corrections she should stop pulling as hard, but I correct her way more than 5 times each time we walk. I am constantly jerking the leash saying SUMMER firmly. She is just so set on tracking trails she does not pay attention or listen whatsoever.
I use a adjustableslip collar on my dogs. It is kind of like a choke collar but is made of nylon instead of chain. You can get them at wal-mart. They work very well in my opion. My sister also used them on her APBT because he would not walk on a leash all he wanted do do was pull and drag her everywhere.
But Ace, with a choke collar, something is actually being done. Pressure is being put on the neck, and she will figure it out. Believe me, a half Beagle with half of a hunting instinct should figure it out just as well as a full blood Beagle with full hunting instinct :D ---Allie the Chihuahua http://www.dogster.com/?41063 ---Mönica the Kitty http://www.catster.com/?57596
Yeah, I know Allie...but everyone keeps saying that you shouldn't use one unless you know how to. I don't know how to. I didn't realize there were things to know in order to have your dog wear one. I don't want to use it incorrectly or anything and do more harm then good.
I would go to your dog training school, where you took Ace. They will show you how to use it correctly! Ask them how to put it on and correct Summer in the most effective way. ---Allie the Chihuahua http://www.dogster.com/?41063 ---Mönica the Kitty http://www.catster.com/?57596
ace; it is not hard and you have to pull extremly hard to hurt the dogs trachea. to put on a choke collar for walking on your left side: the rings will be on the dogs right side, with ring that connects to the leash should be connected to the chain running over tha top of his neck. for walking the dog on the right. the rings will be on the dogs left. with the ring that connects to the leash connected to the chain that runs over the top of his neck. to use it, place the collar right behind the dogs ears. when you want to give a correction. pull the leash sharply towards you. use just enough force to get the chain to tighten around the dogs neck. the biggest mistake people make is they try to hurt the the dog. the tension should just be enough to get the dogs attention. the second mistake is not releasing. release the chain immediatly. to create a pop. practise on a stuffed animal before putting on your dog. remeber the chain should be high on the dogs neck. there you have it. it is not that hard.