I have two dogs (one German Shepherd & one Puggle). I have trouble walking them both. Usually I have the GSD on a retractable leash, because she likes to explore & the Puggle on a 4 to 6 ft leash. I often get them tangled or wrapped around me. What kind of techniques or leashes are useful for walking two dogs? I saw something called a Euro leash & also something about a leash with a "Y" for two dogs. But, I don't know anything about either. Any suggestions?
I have 2 dogs as well. They are both lab mixes, 50 & 60 lbs. The younger one has been with me for 6 months & is a year & a half young as well as full of energy. The other has energy as well, but she is 6 & is used to our walks. It takes some time to adjust, but eventually you will be able to know the criss cross techniques. I don't recommend the Y attachements on your leash because it tends to confine them too closely to each other. I've tried them myself. Both my dogs are on individual retractables. Just keep them on the same length (distance) from you at first, sort of as though you are on a dog sled. LOL
You may want to start with regular leads rather than retractables at first, just to get them adjusted to walking together.
I have been walking two dogs and I am about going crazy. Jasper all of a sudden doesn't want to heel anymore and Otis is still learning. I was told that those Y leashes work well but I don't think I want my dogs that close. Does anybody have an opinion oh those body harnesses? I have a halti and it does not work at all. The only thing that comes close to getting my dogs to stop puling is a pinch collar, which I hate using.
The Y collars are only useful if both dogs are trained to walk properly prior to using it.
The dogs should be taken on seperate walks until each has learned to properly walk without pulling, heel, ect. If one or both are unmanageable, you are only asking for trouble trying to take them both at once.
***Edited By: lpn169 on 4/4/2008 6:13:06 PM*** Reason: sp
People are like slinky's, not really good for much. But its still fun to push them down the stairs.
Arrghh...apparently you can't edit from the preview screen lol..okay one more time! I have three dogs not to mention I've been a hired dog walker for the past 2 1/2 yrs. Personally don't even bother buying a coupler. I tried several when I only had the two dogs and none of them worked very well. A coupler is what most of the other posters were talking about. It's a device that connects the two dogs together then you clip the coupler onto one leash. The problem with those is the lack of control you have. I have a 20 lb dog and a 10 lb dog. Well if the smaller dog attempted to stop to pee and the heavier dog kept moving ahead the poor smaller dog was getting dragged. What I found is the BEST solution. It's called a double or in my case now a triple leash. The main difference between this and an coupler is the design. On the double leash there is a loop type handle (as you would have on any standard leash) but directly under this is a swivel clip. Clipped onto that swivel hook are the two, or in my case three leashes. This design gives you so much more control. If one dog stops and you stop the other dog can't pull the stopped dog. If you need to quickly move the dogs you can just grab the leashes and move them away. The top swivel clip means that no matter how often they cross over they don't get the leashes tangled. In the case of the three leashes it's a little more complicated because they can tend to braid. In that case I just detach one leash from the swivel hook, let the other two unwind and reattach the third leash. This isn't an issue with only two leashes attached. I bought mine on ebay. I looked in many pet store and online pet stores and have never found one like this. You might have better luck in your area? Needless to say if you can't find one and you are interested just email me and I'll send you the information. The guy who makes them does have a website now, but the rules on the forum don't allow me to give out that information here :( I've attached a picture of mine. I have recommended this leash to many of our clients and friends. Everyone that has bought one absolulely loves it. He makes them in different sizes, lengths and colors. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b122/Keesha63/HPIM1122.jpg
***Edited By: keesha63 on 4/5/2008 10:24:17 AM*** Reason: sp
i walk both all the time with a gentle leader...it is AMAZING! both have seperate leashes and while wearing the leader they are very docile and easy to handle. without it, they would pull me down the block! good luck!
Indifference turns clarity into denial. ~Quan Tracy Cherry
Here's my reply to a dog owner having pulling problems. Once you get the control walking them together will not be a problem. Remember training is the key not a mechanical device such as a gentleleader. As an ethologically based behaviorist this is a common problem I see with many dog owners. Behavior modification based training is the best method to solve this problem. You can get a temporary fix with a physical apparatus but modifying the behavior is the only way to completely handle the problem. For novice trainers and owners the best training is acomplished with something I confidently call a "whisper string". It is very simply a 3/16 inch braided poly rope 15 to 20 feet in length with a simple overhand loop tied in one end and fed back through to form a slip noose. This will perform the same as choke chain but is much easier to handle for novices as it will not slide down the neck when relaxed. There are two basic areas of control this will apply to, one being the nerves coming out of the back of the head and the 2nd one being a choke effect. Don't worry about hurting your dog by choking they are physiologically designed to withstand this without injury. Now fit this slip noose right behind the ears very high up on the neck. Pull it snug with the knot at the side. Familiarize your dog with giving to the rope by pulling him around and praising him anytime he follows or relaxes the line. Now in an area with no distraction walk your dog around on this keeping it short just a couple feet between you and your dog. Anytime the rope comes tight reposition your dog next to you by lifting the rope and pulling him to your side. Use no vocal command but always reward anytime the dog performs. Just anticipate the rope coming tight and apply the lift and pull. You should be controlling the dog with the rope every 5 or 6 seconds in the first 2 or 3 minutes. You should zig zag around as you are doing this, causing the rope to become tight and eliciting your "lift and pull". Since you are "absolutely" controling the behavior or response of the dog you should be rewarding verbally each time you pull the dog into position. The reward must be immediate and firm. You are rewarding the dog for heeding to the rope tightening so the reward needs to be immediate. You should also give strong pyhsical praise every minute or so during this process. You will see the dog beginning to "back off" the rope tightening within 2 to 3 minutes and following the rope wherever it leads. Gradually allow more and more rope between you and the dog but do not allow the dog to pull the rope out from your hand only allow it to take up the slack you have provided. Be firm and forcefull with your control and honest with your reward. Within 5 minute or so you should have the dog giving to your direction and relaxing back anytime the rope comes tight. When the dog is performing for you then introduce distractions to the process. Remember anticipation will help the dog learn and understand quicker. In transistion from this rope to your walking lead and collar you can use both at the same time but only pull the rope when control is necessary otherwise use the regular lead. This is the method I use to teach all dogs to walk on a lead from new puppies to stubborn older dogs that will drag you down the street!!! It works on ALL dogs and the results are quick and conclusive. Even your most stubborn pullers behavior can be modified in only a couple sessions with occasional reminder or refresher courses every once in awhile. Remember this rope is a teaching tool not a mechanical solution to a mental behavior. Please feel free to contact me if some things aren't clear I will do my best to help you understand. Also if you are using a retractable lead to walk your dog you are teaching the dog to pull! Think about it! Best to train them to walk on relaxed lead before using a retractable.
try walking on a long skinny path i find after a good long walk in the sun there more obedient if there really tangleie keep walkin straight with your arms outstreched if there pulling too much get a sallyrod when the dog is pulling pull him back say slow giv him a little whip on the upper leg get a branch with a good spring on it its also good for walkin on a lane to keep the rod on the side of the dogs so the stay in on the grass
Since all dogs will scent every pile of feces they come across. Many dogs will EAT feces on their own, a sign of behavior issues generally of the submissive nature. Rubbing their noses in something they are already interested in the smell of and in some cases the taste of is not just ignorant, it is totally counterproductive. Now you've added fear to the whole.
I have never felt the need to strike a dog on lead, no matter the age of breed. A little time, patience and training goes a very long way and makes the outing an enjoyable experience for everyone involved.
For those who feel at their wits end in either of these situations, PLEASE do not follow this individual's disastrous advice.
There are many on here who can and will provide useful advice on the proper way to help train your dog. Ways that do not involve hitting or any other form or level of physical violence.
"Don't accept your dog's admiration as conclusive evidence that you are wonderful".