I just picked up a new puppy from the humane society. They say she is a lab/australian shepherd mix at about 6-8 weeks old. I've had her for only a few days but now that she is starting to get comfortable around people she is becoming a biter. She is also been grabbing at my pants and will not release. I've tried firmly telling her "no bite" and I've tried screaming at her "no bite", but to no avail. Occasionaly I've had to actually open her mouth with one hand to get my other hand out of her mouth (those puppy teeth are razor sharp). I know she needs a lot of exercise but I barely want to play with her because if I run with her she grabs my pants and she'll get kicked. If I walk she does the same thing. If I toss a ball she grabs my hand. It is really painful and I'm worried about her getting bigger and maintaining this behavior.
it sounds like your dog has inherited a good many of her australian shepherd herding genes. Lots of herding breeds nip at the heels of the animals they herd, and tend to mimic the same behavior among family members as well.
You can help redirect the behavior to a degree. Keep her on a leash in the house, so you can pull her off using the leash/collar instead of your fingers. You can also keep a spray bottle with water handy, so when she hangs on, spritz her in the face (aim for the nose, not the eyes). Most dogs dont like being sprayed in the muzzle, she should let go immediately. If she likes being sprayed with the water (hello labrador retriever lovers), you can make the spray bottle 1/4 to 1/2 vinegar. The strong smell is incredibly offensive to dogs. Be as quick about the squirting as possible, you can quickly bend down and spray her in her mouth, whcih will definitely make her let go. Any time you spray her, always say the same command "No biting" or whatever phrase you go with. So she associates the bad taste/experience with the phrase you use.
Never trust a tall dwarf... he's lying about something.
Interesting, I'll have to try that. I was looking at getting some of that bitter spray and I figured I'd squirt it on my hands and the bottom of my pants before we played, but that sounds like just as effective of a solution. Maybe I'm asking too general of a question for this specific combination of dog, but what kind of time-table should I be looking at for this dog to get the potty training, stop the biting, learn her name (she either ignores me or just doesn't know it), and time for acceptance of the crate?
"but what kind of time-table should I be looking at for this dog to get the potty training, stop the biting, learn her name (she either ignores me or just doesn't know it), and time for acceptance of the crate?"
I think that all depends on how much effort you are willing to put into it. Training is all about repetition and routine.
Crate training is the best as it makes a dog feel safe and secure. Lucy will go in hers during the day while we are at work and then will go in by herself if she wants some alone time. Start this as soon as possible I use treats at first just to get them comfortable with going in.
she hates her crate. How can I make it better for her. I try to put some toys in there and I have a dress shirt in there so she has something with my smell on it, but she just can't stand being boxed in. I've tried putting her in there and leaving the door open and sitting beside the crate but she won't stand for that either. When I go to work I'll toss a treat in there and the little bugger is so smart she'll either refuse to go get the treat or if she goes in to get it she'll run right back out. It then turns into a fight to get the door closed. I know that the "beat them to the punch" method of closing the door is just teaching her to fear the crate. Suggestions?
I got my dog used to the crate by ignoring him when he barked or cried...first day he barked for 1/2 hour non-stop. I sat in a chair with my back to him the whole time. As soon as he calmed down I praised him and let him out. Then each time I'd put him in he would cry but for a shorter time. As soon as it got to just a minute or so I'd put him in and immediately let him out so he understood he wasn't going to be trapped in there. He still doesn't love it during the day, but at night when he knows he MUST go in, all I have to do is tap the top of the crate and he goes in for the night. No barking or crying.
Lu loves her crate... We actually were lucky because we found a monster size one at a grarage sale (some dogs do not do well with this because they mess inside but she does not have ANY potty issues)
Our secret has been cheese cubes lol & lots of routine. As a pup, after a short bathroom walk I would keep her leash on her grab a cheese cube from the fridge toss it in the back say "In" and close the door, everyday. Now all I have to do is say "in" and she walks right in. She will even go in their while I'm doing laundry to take a mid day snooze.
I also enrolled her in a 7 week class first thing and I now keep her busy with agility at least once a week. I couldn't be happier with the results.
any negative reinforcer that gets the desired reaction requires postive praise for the results. Squirt bottle, slap, lip pinch, verbal startling not a lot of difference. Play with the dog encourage the dog to bite, administer the Negative Reinforcer (whatever works) as soon as the dog releases praise verbally and physically with strong praise. Repeat immediately. You can even pry open it's mouth and put your hand in, eve nforce it in after the dog doesn't want it. Reprimand,praise, repeat!!! It should take about 5 minutes to teach this dog not to bite and then repetition of the process over the next few day will turn it to a conditioned response.
why would you make a dog bite you, just to yell at it? you're going to end up with a very confused untrained dog if you continue with any tips you seem quite handy to pass out.
To the OP. What I have used on my little guy, when he would start nipping and biting.. I would stop playing. Picked up the toys (I only would keep one or two out) and ignored him. Every time he would start biting while playing.. that's it. No more play time. He soon learned that when he bites, the fun ends.
I also told him no bite,.. and would stop for a minute or two. Then when he persisted we would stop. If he/she gets too testy... you could also try a muzzle squeeze, along with a no bite.
You create the situation in a controlled environment as to easier control the variables to maintain consistency and allow repetition of the learning process to reach a conditioned level to eliminate the dogs need to process or "think" to react as taught. Why would you take a retriever out and throw a fake bird for him? For the very same reason!!! You really don't understand how a dogs mind works do you? My process, proven thousands of times, doesn't work but yours does? Why does your process work? What are the important aspects of why it works? I don't expect you to have the answers but atleast maybe you will think about how the dog preceived what you did in this process. I would like to know the foundation, not your opinion, of why you discredit my successful process?
The statement "my process has worked thousands of times" goes to show you're not in it for the love of dogs, but for the money.
My foundation of training is with using positive reinforement only. I will setup a dog to do a bad behavior, one that I know they do, to properly correct that situation. No psyical punishment is used. If the dog does not want to do what I ask, then they do not get what they want. They must earn it.
Okay, This one is easy. And it does not take force.
I train dogs to bite. So, I get puppies that bite like madmen. So, what do I do to teach them. I make the biting unrewarding. I do not move, I stay still. It hurts sometimes. But a little pup is not trying to be mean they are trying to elicit a response. So when I am teaching I carry a rag in my pocket. I pull the rag out when the puppy bites. I stay as still as I can and wave the rag. sooner or later the dog will give up. (extiniction) This happens when you put a coin in pop machine and do not get your coke. the you push the button, harder and harder, you may even kick it. but the you give up. the escalation in behavior is called an extinciton burst. so the behavior may get worse before it gets better. then once the dog lets go and gets the rag, I come alive...the reward the dog was looking for...eliciting a response.
I believe a dog's finest hour, the greatest fulfillment he holds dear, is when he has worked his heart out in a good cause and lies exhausted on the field of battle-with a ball in his mouth."
I will use a muzzel squeeze if necessary. I think I've done it once or twice to the pup over the year and a half I've had him. If you knew anything about wolf packs, it is how an older wolf would tell a pup it's not doing something good. And yes, it has worked.
And water pistols are not negative if the pup enjoys it :P
MericoX19 The water squirt will not elicit the response if the dog likes it! Your back to the wolf pack? Any true behaviorist will tell you that our domestic dogs actually have very little "wolf related" habits in them if any. But on the subject of wolves! Did you know that the most used form of control in the pack is the "choke". From young members being out of control to adult challengers of the Alpha structure. You see wolves like dogs have physologically evolved with a colapsable area above the larnyx. This allowed the dominant subject to actually deny air to the control subject until it essentially lacked enough oxygen to the brain to control its muscle behavior and it would be forced to submission! The same way the choke collar was designed to, and when properly used, worked. This is the same thing we see many dogs attempt to do that the humans "label" as one dog trying to kill the other by going for the juglar vein. It takes a very trained and experienced eye to be able to read the dogs posture and indicators that distinguish the difference. By the way how many dogs have you trained?
"dr" hogan-I'm curious as to where you got your degree? And what your degree is? What is the name of your training business, and where are you based? Do you have your own website where people can go for advice? Do you offer training seminars? Do you have any referals? (other than those with the same ip address as yours)
I quote drhogan as.... you wouldnt know where to look online as I dont post my services there.... or something of the sort.
I believe this is the first time that I have refered to the wolf pack. Since its obvious in your years of training, you have not notice that dominant dogs will treat submissive dogs, or puppies, oh... wait for it.... just like wolves do!!! Wow! Amazing!
It's the same thing as dogs natural instincts to hunt show through, when they've never been trained. In essence, dogs are just funning looking wolves. :P
Some pets stores actually have "Teething toys" for dogs. Our Puppy Kyra is a biter so we got her this teething stick that you soak in water and freeze, SHE LOVES IT and it has saved my arms and hands (She was breaking the skin) also you can try a watergun and spray her with water (not as effective on dogs as it is on cats) but it gets their attention. Also a lot of chewing toys can help the easiest is to put a piece of smoked meator flavorful treat into a sock tie it in a knot and let the puppy chew to their heart's content (Remember to take the meat/treat out and replace with fresh)
I'm having similar issues with my golden retriver pup who likes to bite the legs of anyones pants. Saying NO didnt work, so now we're ignoring him when he does it. The water pistol worked temporarily on him, but then he seemed to get used to it and it didnt bother him! Ignoring him and not playing with him until he settles down seems to have an effect.